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Early Fall is the best time of year to travel to Vancouver and spend time in its forests. Herewith, Molly Beauchemin captures the season of splendor in a few of the area’s best hikes…
Capilano Suspension Bridge is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Vancouver, yet it feels distinctly “hidden”, nestled 70 meters above the Capilano River in a temperate rainforest on the North Shore. British Columbia is defined by three towering classes of pine-smelling, otherworldly trees: Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock, and Red Cedar, all of which abound in this region. The Capilano Suspension Bridge gives visitors the chance to get up close and personal with botanical giants. A must-try experience is crossing the iconic Capilano Suspension Bridge, where rowdy teenagers are encouraged not to jump up and down because it scares the jelly-legged tourists.
Hydrangeas bloom much later in the wet, misty climes of British Columbia than they do in most other East and West Coast cities. In the Capilano region, I spotted plenty of ginormous, cantaloup-sized blooms of the powder blue variety, Hydrangea macrophylla, which is commonly known as “bigleaf hydrangea” (it’s actually native to Japan). This is a beautiful (if unexpected) flower to find prospering in early September.
The new Cliffwalk at Capilano follows a granite precipice along the Capilano River Canyon with a labyrinth-like series of narrow cantilevered bridges, stairs, and raised platforms whose engineering was made possible by over 100 million years of volcanic eruptions, glacier formation, raging rivers, and erosive rapids. Here, the sheer force of water has worn away the granite rock walls to which the glass platforms are tethered. Even on a rainy day, traversing the canyon from this birds-eye view feels both exploratory and enchanting. Another fun fact I learned on this adventure: trees can absorb up to 40% of their water from fog.
Lighthouse Park (on the far western reach of the North Shore) is one of my favorite places in Vancouver. This is a real “locals only” spot, with loads of picnicking students, yogis, and families climbing over the rocks to take in the view of Burrard Inlet at sunset. Lighthouse Park’s 75 hectares are covered in almost completely virgin rainforest. When a friend who lives in downtown Van recommended this hike, she failed to mention that LP is considered one of the most scenic parks on the West Coast.
I’ve hiked pretty extensively in the Pacific Northwest and along along the coast of California, and Lighthouse Park really did boast some of the most rewarding views I’ve seen in this region– especially given how accessible the path is. You don’t have to be a seasoned hiker to take this on; the hiking routes are so forgiving and gentle that they’re more like secluded walking paths. When you get towards the Lookout points on each loop (none of which exceed 5k) there is ample opportunity to climb on top of massive, sun-soaking boulders to discover gorgeous waterfront views like this.
I nearly lost my mind when I discovered an Urban Cultivator Juicebar during an afternoon stroll through Yaletown. Living Produce Aisle produces some of the best green juices in the city from micro greens grown on-site. Anyone concerned with the freshness of the produce that goes into their juices will love this hidden botanical gem in the middle of one of Van City’s trendiest neighborhoods (foodies visiting the area should also check out nearby Tacofino Commisary and Adele-approved Mister Artisanal Icecream; If you’re getting a green juice this fresh, you might as well earn your detox.)
My dad, an Analytical Chemist, once told me that the color of any given hydrangea is determined by the pH balance of its soil. Now, whenever I see an inordinately-pink or purple- bloom I find myself thinking, “What is happening in the soil to make it look like this?” Blue hydrangeas like the one in the previous slide require a pH of 5.2-5.5. If your soil is more alkaline, you can lower the pH with Soil Acidifier or an acidic organic mulch, such as pine needles or pine bark. The more alkaline the soil, the more “pink” the resulting bloom will be. (I spotted these flowers next to St. Andrews Church in downtown VanCity.)
When I saw these lemon cucumbers at the Nelson Park Farmers Market in Downtown Vancouver, I bought a bag of them immediately because I didn’t even know such a thing existed. Lemon cucumbers (Cucumis sativus ‘Lemon’) are tennis ball-sized heirlooms with yellow color and mild, non-lemon flavor. They grow splendidly in cooler climates like that of British Columbia, making them an ideal “tourist” buy. The color and flavor is unique to this region– a beautiful twist on a classic cucumber.
Globe thistle growing wild in Queen Elizabeth Park, overlooking the Vancouver Skyline. I got brunch with a friend at the iconic Seasons In The Park (a beautiful restaurant nestled on the highest forested cliff in the city) and we saw this particular plant while walking through the exquisite quarry gardens that the restaurant overlooks.
“The Grouse Grind”, often referred to as “Nature’s Stair Master” and “one of the hardest hikes in Canada” is– as of this writing– one of the most grueling hikes I’ve ever done. The Grind is one hour of near-vertical ascent through a stairway in the forest. Hikers ascend without relief for the entirety of the climb. After completing the hike, I described it to some friends as being “akin to doing a crossfit workout on the set of Twilight”– meaning that the trees are old, misty, mysterious, and captivating enough to make for some truly ethereal scenery, but the hike is vertiginous and extremely tiring. My quads were burning, but the view from atop Grouse Mountain was absolutely incredible.
The Vancouver Seawall is the world’s longest uninterrupted waterfront path, and biking it is a truly incredible experience at sunset. There is no better way to explore a city than on a bike, and Vancouver’s natural areas are some of the most bike-friendly of the world’s major cities (second to perhaps only Copenhagen). The 28 km Seaside Greenway is the most popular place to walk, bike, run, jog, or take pictures, and with good reason. There are moments in the late evening when light on the Stanley Park waterfront is attenuated to the perfect golden glow. Vancouver is absolutely radiant on these late-summer nights, whose perfection persists in memory long after the city goes to sleep.