Sqirl Makes The Best Breakfast in L.A.
Jessica Koslow’s Sqirl restaurant in L.A. makes what many consider to be the best breakfast food in America– maybe even anywhere.
Koslow, who learned the ropes under Anne Quatrano of the celebrated Atlanta restaurant Baccanalia, first made a name for herself selling locally-made jams, which she fashioned into intriguing seasonal flavors like “Seascape Strawberry and Rose Geranium” and “Raspberry Cardamon”, taking time to include local fruits like Warren Pear that don’t usually make it out of California.
At first, Koslow sold her jams at local farmers markets in L.A.– so the concept behind Sqirl, or so she jokes, was just to make food that could be used as a vehicle for these jams. Little did she know, her revolutionary take on healthful breakfast food would take over not just L.A., but an entire nation of foodies. Last fall, Koslow published her first cookbook [easyazon_link identifier=”141972231X” locale=”US” tag=”gardcoll03-20″]Everything I Want To Eat: Sqirl and the New California Cooking[/easyazon_link], which quickly became one of our favorite food books on the market.
When food critics first caught word of the menu, the dish had both The L.A. Times and the New York Times raving– the latter called it “wickedly-conceived breakfast food” that was “downright revolutionary,” while the former suggested that Sqirl’s food can “actually touch your life.”
The crown jewel of Sqirl’s menu is the Sorrel Pesto Bowl, made with Meyer Lemon and sorrel pesto, a perfectly-poached egg, pickled watermelon radish, and creamy sheeps milk cheese folded over sensationally-cooked rice. In the span of 2013 to 2015, when food critics first caught word of the menu, the dish had both The L.A. Times and the New York Times raving– the latter called it “wickedly-conceived breakfast food” that was “downright revolutionary,” while the former suggested that Sqirl’s food can “actually touch your life.”
Repeat visits to the restaurant prove that it does. Sqirl’s brioche knocks the wind out of you, to say nothing of the savory rice and egg bowls that have become a celebrated compliment to what was once a small jam business. The menu features a variety of intriguing gluten free options, as well, like cactus flour pancakes and brown rice porridge. Drink options are also excellent and flavorful, from Vanilla Bean Limeade to Vegan Horchata (made with Kokouho Rose brown rice and organic medjool dates).
Most people have no idea how all of Sqirl’s food can be THIS good, but many of Koslow’s secrets, as the cookbook now reveals, simply stem from using fresh, seasonal ingredients and striving to cook only with what is locally produced. Fresh flavors make better meals, and Sqirl is an enduring testament to that tradition.
Sqirl is located at 720 N Virgil Ave #4 in Los Angeles, California.
Looking for other LA recs? Check out Gjusta Bakery, Plant Food + Wine, and Kismet.
